How To Megasquirt Your 2nd Gen RX-7: Wire The Megasquirt MS1/MS2 Harness Into The Car

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These instructions cover the Megasquirt MS1/MS2. If instead you are installing MS1/MS2, then you want to read the MS3X and MS3-Pro wiring instructions.

Now the fun stuff can begin when we actually start wiring the Megasquirt harness into the car. This is going to be the most involved section of the writeup and most of the work will take place here. Everything having to do with wiring up the Megasquirt will be covered here including the fuse box, actual Megasquirt wiring, fuel pump and wideband.

Preassemble and Prepare The Megasquirt Harness

Pull Spare Wires from Megasquirt Harness
Some of the wires on the harness don't need to be run into the engine bay so you can pull them back through the split loom tubing so they exit close to the DB37 connector. This of course assumes you are using the DIYAutoTune harness specified in this writeup. If you are making your own harness for some strange reason (seriously, the DIYAutoTune harness is a work of art and well worth the money) then simply don't put these wires into your loom.

From the DB37 end, pull the following wires back:

12V Power
O2 Sensor
Ignition Input
24, 2
Shielded Gray (White Core)
Ignition Output
Fuel Pump

We are going to use all of these wires except the brown ignition output. Coil the ignition output up and place it out of the way. Another alternative is to just leave it in the harness and ignore it while keeping it in mind for future use.

Add 4 Conductor Shielded CAS Pickup Wire
There is one shielded ignition pickup included in a standard Megasquirt harness. It's fine for many applications but the CAS on the RX-7 has two sensors. While another shielded wire could be run, using the shield as the sensor ground (as would have to happen to use the existing single conductor wire) can result in noise. Thus the wire will be replaced by the 4 conductor shielded cable.

Remove the case from the DB37 by removing the two screws at the sides. Pay attention to the two screws at the front of the connector as they will fall out and you will need to reinstall them when you reassemble the case.

Cut the shielded wire about one inch from the DB37 and the separate out the inner core conductor from the braided shield. A razor blade helps to cut away the excess material. Cut 2 pieces of small heat shrink tubing about half an inch long and slip them over the ends of the cut ignition cable. You will likely need to twist the braid together to accomplish this. Now strip about 1/4" at the end of the white center conductor.

Pass the 4 conductor shielded cable through the strain relief and strip about 2" of insulation from the end. Separate out the braid and twist it into a wire.

Now strip about 1/4" from two of the shielded wires. Note that most shielded cable has some kind of colour pattern. For example, the cable shown here has two blue (blue, blue/white) and two white (white, white/blue) pairs. Try to keep the pairs together, especially if they are twisted. In this case we are using the blue pair to connect to the stock 'Squirt ignition input. You will need to note down which wires you use so that you can connect the CAS properly later. Now that you have decided which wires you will use, connect one to the white wire (pin 24) by carefully twisting them together and the soldering. Insulate with the heat shrink tubing. Now connect the other wire in the pair to uninsulated braided wire (the former shield), solder, and insulate with heat shrink.

To connect the remaining two wires you will need two DB connector female crimp or solder pins. These are available at any electronics store as well as Radio Shack. It is unlikely that you have the proper crimper so in these instructions we will solder them. If you have the proper crimper, by all means use it.

Strip enough insulation off of a wire in the 2nd pair (white pair in the image below) and carefully solder on a pin. You will find it helpful to use a set of needle nose pliers to slightly crimp the pin so that it grips the wire. Then just use a small dab of solder to make the connection. Perform the same on the second wire in the pair. Now, push one pin into hole number 3 on the DB37, and the next into hole 4. A small screwdriver or bent paper clip will help push the pins until they seat. Remember, write down which wire you have connected to which pin. You will need to know this later!

Finally, strip a bit of insulation on one of the black ground wires and solder on the shield from the 4 conductor cable.

The finished connector will look something like this:

DB37 with 4 conductor shielded cable added

Reassemble the two case halves making sure to reinstall the two screws at the front. It doesn't hurt to use a few dabs of silicone first to stabilize the wires inside the connector.

Pass Megasquirt Harness Through Stock Wire Grommet
Wrap up the loose ends of the Megasquirt harness with electrical tape and then pass it through the stock wiring grommet which used to be occupied by the EFI harness. Put the DB37 through the hole in the firewall and feed the harness into the car. It helps to have someone else inside the car to pull on the harness and make sure it doesn't get hung up on stuff. When the grommet reaches the firewall, push it into hole. Feed the Megasquirt harness down to the Megasquirt panel but leave enough slack so you have about 12 inches of extra harness. You won't run out, so don't worry. Do not connect the harness to the ECU at this point. Reconnect the stock orange connector in the passenger kick panel as well as the wiper motor connector.

Run Wires In Engine Bay
Instead of having a rats nest of cables exiting the firewall it helps greatly to roughly position the wires near where they will eventually end up. There are three main groups of wires which connect from the ECU to the engine: injectors, sensors and coils. Additionally there is wiring for the BAC valve, electric fan and main power feed.

Run the harness up along the firewall just above the lip, keeping it behind any emissions plumbing that may still be in place. Run it behind the brake booster and then down under the trailing coil (you will need to remove the coil) and finally all the way along the frame rail until it reaches the battery/leading coil area. Leave enough slack so that harness can follow the contours of its path without being stretched or pinched. There is a lot of harness so don't worry about running out.

Now you can start pulling wires from the harness that will be used to connect to the sensor and other components. Pull the thick blue (INJ1), thick green (INJ2) and thin green wires (FIDLE) wires out of the harness around the fuel rail area of the engine. In the same area, also pull the yellow coolant temp (CLT) sensor wire. Run a 12 gauge red wire from the injector area along the harness and fish it back into the car to terminate near the fuse box. Leave plenty of slack. This will provide 12V power to the fuel injectors. To provide a ground for the CLT, run a 16 gauge black wire from the CLT area to the harness along the firewall with a bit of slack. This will eventually tie into the sensor ground wire we will add later. Finally, a 16 gauge red wire needs to be run from inside the car up along the harness and to the BAC valve area. If you have an S4 NA, then the BAC is on the other side of the manifold (mounted to the dynamic chamber) so run those wires while you run the wires to the throttle body.

The picture below shows these wires being run on a TII. This is an "in progress" picture so not everything is in place yet.

Megasquirt wires being run in TII engine bay

Around the throttle body, you need to run the TPS, CAS and IAT wires. Start by pulling the thin blue (TPS Sensor), gray (5V REF) and orange (IAT) wires to the throttle body area. The two TPS wires will ultimately end up at the TPS (duh) while the IAT wires will end up at the IAT (double duh). Note that S5 NAs have the IAT at the other side of the engine so this wire should be run in the injector area. Run the shielded CAS wire as well to the CAS area. I tend to run all of these wires just past the clutch slave cylinder in one bundle then split them up underneath the intake manifold around the oil filter area. I suggest keeping the CAS wire totally separate though to avoid noise issues. A ground wire for the IAT and TPS is necessary so run a 16 gauge black wire from this area all the way back to the Megasquirt ECU panel and leave plenty of slack on both ends. When we actually start soldering, this wire will tie in with the short ground wire ran to the CLT.

The next wires to be run are the coil and e-fan wires. All of these use the IAC wires provided in the harness. The colours of the IAC wires are ambiguous (there are two of each colour) and labelled poorly (two wires share the same label) so you will need to use a continuity tester to find out which wires lead to which pins on the DB37. It is very important you get this right. While the car may run if you mix up the leading and trailing trigger, for example, it will run very poorly. If you connect the coil trigger wires to the e-fan, you will fry parts of the 'Squirt.

Locate the trailing trigger and trailing toggle (IAC1B, IAC2A) wires and run them to the trailing coil area. At this point you may want to remove the trailing coil if not already done. From the trailing coil area, run a 16 gauge red wire all the way back to the ECU, leaving slack at each end. We'll use this red wire to provide IGN 12V to the ECU to avoid having to dig under the dash at the ignition switch. The trailing coil receives IGN 12V from the stock main EFI relay.

Feed the leading trigger (IAC2B) and e-fan trigger (IAC1A) down along the frame rail to the leading coil area. Bring the e-fan wire (IAC1A) out to the front of the car around the driver side front relays (between the bumper and rad). From that same relay area, run a 12 gauge red wire all the way back to the ECU. This wire will provide 12V power for the e-fan.

We are almost done pulling wires in the engine bay at this point. The final two wires you need to run for the Megasquirt harness are 8 gauge power and ground (red and black) wires from the battery area back to the ECU panel. Leave slack on both ends.

Now, take what remains of your stock EFI harness and reconnect it to the engine. Plug it into the wiper motor, alternator (if applicable) and the dash coolant temp sensor.

Finally, run the O2 sensor wire from the wideband through the wiring grommet to the interior of the car. Position the O2 sensor connector on the inner fender (you will find there are convenient factory holes that the connector will clip to). Remove the stock O2 sensor (plenty of penetrating oil helps here) and then install the wideband sensor with some anti-seize on the threads. Connect the wideband sensor to the connector.

All the rough wiring is now complete in the engine bay so next, we move to the fuel pump wiring inside the car.

Run Wires For Fuel Pump
Power for the fuel pump is now going to come from the ECU panel and is controlled by a relay switched by the Megasquirt. Due to the inadequate size and age of the stock wiring it is best to avoid it entirely and run new wires. To do this, run 12 gauge red and black wires (positive and ground) from the ECU panel to the fuel pump. The fuel pump is located under an access panel beside the driver side shock tower. So you will need to run these wires along the passenger side door sill, up along the B pillar, around the rear of the hatch and finally to the driver shock tower. Leave some slack so there is enough extra wire to make connections. To run these wires you will have to remove the door sill trim, loosen up the B pillar trim, remove the speaker covers and surrounding trim, remove the trim around the hatch area and remove the driver shock tower carpet. This trim is all held on with Phillips head screws and metal clips. Just be careful when prying them out to avoid breaking the plastic. Secure the new fuel pump wires with zip ties before reinstalling the trim but leave the driver side trim and carpet off because we will come back to this area to wire the fuel pump.

Master Wiring Schematic

Below is the master wiring schematic which shows how the whole system is wired. All the steps below this will refer back to this schematic so print it out and keep it handy. Anyone who has looked at a Megasquirt wiring schematic before (such as the one in the Megamanual) will be familiar with the basic layout of this schematic. I made this one using much of the elements and graphics from the standard Megasquirt schematic. The schematic is a bit huge so what you see here has been resized so it doesn't screw up the formatting on the rest of the page. Click on the image to get a full sized view in a new window.

Master 2nd Gen RX-7 Megasquirt Wiring Schematic Image
Click to open in new window

Wire The Engine

The real wiring starts with the engine where the injectors and all the sensors are connected. These instructions will progress from the left to the right of the engine starting with the injectors.

Wire The Injectors
The 12 gauge red wire provides power to the injectors. Since there are two sets of injectors, two power wires are needed and thus this one needs to be split. Cut two pieces of 12 gauge red wire about 12 inches long, then strip some insulation from one end of each wire. Strip some insulation from the end of the 12 gauge red wire already on the car, twist all the wires together and solder. Don't forget to slip your heat shrink tubing over the wires first. Shrink the tubing after the joint has cooled a little and check to make sure the seal is solid.

Start by wiring the primary injectors. Loosely place two of your new injector connectors on the injectors (no point in locking them in place now since they will have to be removed later) and run the wires around the fuel rail. Lay the thick blue (INJ1) alongside and then trim one side of the injector connectors and the thick blue so that they can be connected. Strip the thick blue and the injector connector wires, slip on heat shrink, solder, then shrink. Repeat for the other side of those same two connectors (orange wires in this picture) but connect to one of the 12 gauge red wires.

Primary and secondary injectors wired to Megasquirt

Now wire the secondary injectors the same way as the first. Connect one side of both injectors to the red 12 gauge wire and insulate with heat shrink tubing. The picture above shows the orange wires connected to the red 12V wire. Connect the other side of the connectors (black wires in this picture) to the thick green (INJ2) wire on the Megasquirt harness and insulate with heat shrink.

Observant readers will notice that the picture shows the colours of the Megasquirt wires to be opposite of what I described. This is a trick of the camera (seriously).

Wire Coolant Temp (CLT) Sensor
Plug the connector into the coolant temp sensor and then route wires over the primary injector area to meet up with the yellow wire on the Megasquirt harness and the black ground you ran earlier. You can see the wires a bit in the picture above as they come around the thermostat neck and slide in around the fuel rail. Keep them clear of the metering oil pump rod to avoid jams. This sensor is non-polar so it doesn't matter how you connect it. Just solder and heat shrink the connections. If you have purchased the CLT connector from DIYAutoTune, it will likely have come with a yellow and black wire which match up perfectly with the Megasquirt harness.

Coolant Temp Sensor wired to Megasquirt

At this point, also splice the black wire from the CLT to the black wire you ran along the firewall harness earlier. The easiest way to do this is to cut the wire along the firewall and strip both ends. Then trim the wire leading from the CLT appropriately, strip and twist all wires together before soldering. Don't forget to slip your heat shrink onto the correct side of the long black harness wire and NOT the black wire coming from the CLT.

Wire The Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
Make sure that the wires for the TPS, IAT and CAS run along the block out of the way, then temporarily place the upper intake manifold onto the engine. Don't bother connecting any of the vacuum lines or other paraphanilia since the manifold will be pulled off again but you may find it helpful to use one bolt just to hold it in place.

There is only one ground wire leading from the Megasquirt harness but two ground connections are needed (TPS and IAT). Split the black wire in the same way that the injector wires were split, making your splice somewhere around the oil filler neck. Insulate it with heat shrink and then run one black wire for the TPS, one for the IAT. You may want to skip placing the upper intake back on until you do this.

If your TPS connector is mangled beyond repair then you will need to replace it with something. If this is the case, most auto parts stores will be able to supply a replacement. Don't ask them for an RX-7 TPS connector, just ask to see a catalog of replacement connectors or bring in the TPS as an example. This writeup assumes you are using the stock connector, which you will now need to cut from your old EFI harness. Make sure to leave a few inches of wire so you can make your connections and clean it up with contact cleaner. In addition, the schematic and these instructions reference the wire colours on the harness and not the TPS. This is because harness colours are the same S4 vs. S5, while TPS wire colours are not.

Plug your TPS connector into the TPS so you can trim all the wires to the correct length, then unplug it for soldering. Trim the gray, blue and one of the black wires on the Megasquirt harness.

Connect the gray wire from the Megasquirt harness (labelled 5V REF) to the brown/white wire of the TPS connector. Connect the blue wire from the 'Squirt harness (TPS Signal) to the green wire on the TPS connector. Finally, the black wire connects to the brown/black (S4) or black (S5) wire on the TPS connector.

TPS wired to Megasquirt

Yeah, this is not a stock connector so this picture isn't much of a help. But the TII I am using for the majority of these pictures had such a bad connector that I had no choice but to replace it with a WeatherPack unit. If anyone has a good picture of a Megasquirt wired with a stock TPS connector, feel free to email it to me and I'll update this image.

Wire The Intake Air Temp Sensor (IAT)
If you have an S5 NA, then the intake air temp sensor will be located on the lower intake manifold at the other side of the engine, so bring the remaining black wire and the orange wire from the Megasquirt harness across the top of the engine to the sensor location. S4 NAs and all TIIs have the sensor located on the throttle body inlet (TII) or dynamic chamber (NA) which is in the same area as these pictures show (basically...).

Plug in the IAT sensor connector and then trim all the wires to an appropriate length. The IAT is non-polar so it doesn't matter how you connect it. Connect the orange (labelled IAT) wire from the Megasquirt harness to the sensor connector, and then do the same with the black wire. If you are using a DIYAutoTune connector, then it has orange and black wires to match. Almost too easy, eh? Don't forget your heat shrink.

IAT Sensor wired to Megasquirt

Wire The BAC Valve
The BAC valve requires a bit of special attention. While the valve itself is non-polar and as easy as an injector to wire up (it uses the same style connector), we need to add a diode into the harness to prevent inductive kickback from the solenoid from damaging the drive transistor in the Megasquirt. This makes the harness wiring only slightly more complicated.

Cut the connector and harness wires to length before slipping a largish diameter piece of heat shrink over the 12V wire and the green F-IDLE wire. Then slip some heat shrink tubing over the red 16 gauge 12V wire, and strip about an inch from the end. Now strip an inch from the connector wire. The BAC is non-polar so it doesn't matter which wire you connect. Twist the two wires together and then twist the lead from the banded end of a 1N4001 diode around that joint as per the image below:

First BAC connection wired with diode

Perform the same steps to the green F-IDLE wire, the remaining lead from the BAC connector and the non-banded lead on the diode. This time, make sure to put your heat shrink on the wire from the BAC connector otherwise you will not be able to slip it over the diode.

Both BAC wires connected with diode

Solder both connections and then slip the heat shrink over them and shrink it.

BAC wiring ready to be heat shrunk

Finally, shrink the large piece of tubing over the entire joint to seal it.

At this point you may have noticed that the connector doesn't actually fit the BAC valve. The locating bump of the BAC valve is off center, while the notch in the connector is in the middle. To remedy this, file the bump off of the BAC.

Wire The Crank Angle Sensor (CAS)
Remember those notes you took when wiring the shielded cable to the DB37? Well, you need them now because the last engine sensor (and the most important) to be wired is the CAS. It is vitally important you get this wiring correct. While the engine will still run if you reverse the polarity of the sensors, timing will be way off and you'll never be able to set it right. Ignore this, and you will be picking apex seals out of the mufflers.

Cut the CAS connector off of the engine harness, making sure to leave a few inches of slack on the cables. Thoroughly clean it with contact cleaner and then examine it for damage. If you find loose pins, cracked insulation or corroded wires, replace it.

Refer to the master wiring schematic when wiring the CAS to make sure everything is correct. The colours of the wires shown in the schematic represent the wires on the CAS itself, not the harness connector. This is because the colours of the harness itself changed between S4 and S5 so to avoid confusion, always go by the wire colours on the CAS.

Remember your heat shrink, and try to keep the wires as short as possible. You don't want a lot of unshielded CAS wiring in the engine bay. Before you connect up any of the CAS wires, slip a big piece of heat shrink over the shielded wire. Connect the wire on the CAS plug corresponding to the red wire on the CAS to the shielded wire on your harness leading to pin 24 of the DB37. Now do the same for the white wire, but connect it to pin 2 of the DB37. Connect the wire on the CAS plug corresponding to the green wire on the CAS to pin 3 on the DB37. Finally, do the same for the white/black wire and connect it to pin 4 of the DB37.

Crank Angle Sensor Wired To Megasquirt

To finish up, seal up all of the CAS wires with the big shrink tube. Not only does this keep the weather out but it provides strain relief to the more delicate wires of the shielded cable and CAS connector.

Congratulations! You have just completed the engine wiring section. It wasn't so bad, was it? Next, we need to wire the coils and fan.

Wire The Ignition Coils and Electric Fan

As the coils and fan are on the same side of the car, this section of the writeup deals with wiring them. There are far fewer connections here then on the engine but they are just as important. We need to connect the trigger signals to both coils, and IGN 12V lead to switch the main relay and the power/relay arrangement for the fan. We'll start with the trailing coils.

Wire The Trailing Coil
Access to the harness in this area of the car is a bit tight so you will have to remove the trailing coil. Keep it handy because you will need to refer back to it for wire colours. As with the CAS, the colours here are referring to the wire pigtail on the coil itself.

The trailing coil receives power from the front body harness via the two conductor plug which connects to it's tan wires. The other connector provides it triggering signals through two of it's connections and allows a tach signal back into the harness through the remaining pin (I don't think anyone, including Mazda, knows what the fourth wire is for. If you know, drop me a line...). There are two ways to make the connection to the trailing coil that don't suck; you can cut the connector off the harness and then reconnect the tach wire through a single wire connector, or you can use a 3 (I'll explain the 3rd connection later) pin connector to connect the Megasquirt harness to the body harness. I personally don't like molesting the stock body harness as replacement is not exactly straightforward, so I recommend adding a connector. But it is far easier to cut the connector off of the body harness, wire it to the Megasquirt harness, and then use a single quick connect (spade) terminal for the non-critical tach connection back into the harness.

Regardless of what you choose, you need to make the following connections. Connect the red (trigger) wire on the trailing coil to IAC1B (pin 27 on the DB37). Then connect the white (toggle) wire to IAC2A (pin 29).

Also at the trailing (and leading, for the record) coil is a handy source of switched 12V ignition. You will find this signal on the black/yellow wires on the harness side of the two tan-wire connector. Connect up the spare wire you ran earlier to one of the black/yellow wires.

Megasquirt connections to trailing coil harness

In the image above, the connections to the front body harness are made using two WeatherPack style connectors, which are available at almost every good auto parts store. A two terminal connector makes the connection to the trailing coil toggle and trigger wires, while a single terminal connector is used for the 12V IGN signal. You can use the connector of your choice but I highly recommend a WeatherPack style connector be used. Most auto parts stores sell them with pigtail leads attached so that you can solder them directly where needed. Molex connectors can be used, but I would recommend staying away from spade (quick connect) connectors unless they are weather tight or you seal them with heat shrink. You'll notice that nowhere I recommend making a soldered connection between the two harnesses. This makes troubleshooting a lot easier and is far more convenient if one of the harnesses has to be removed.

With the wiring done here, you can reinstall the trailing coil.

Wire The Leading Coil
There is but a single connection that needs to be made to the leading coil. Using the same connector method as described above, connect the red wire (coil side) to IAC2B (pin 31 on the DB37). That's basically all there is to the leading coil. It's far more boring then the trailing coil.

Wire The Electric Fan

The e-fan is the last major output device to be wired to the Megasquirt. It is driven though a single relay which I recommend you mount in the engine bay. The relay will be clacking on and off while the car is running which would get seriously annoying if mounted in the passenger compartment. The RX-7 has a number of relays mounted up near the front driver side bumper and there are normally a few spare slots which provide a convenient mounting area for your fan relay.

Connect terminal 87 on the relay to the fans 12V+ connection. Then ground the fans negative connection to a good spot on the chassis using a ring terminal and plenty of dielectric grease. You need to insert a diode between the positive wire to the relay coil and the Megasquirt wire just as you did for the BAC valve. So, connect terminal 85 on the relay to both the non-banded end of a diode, and IAC1A (pin 25 on the DB37) as described in the BAC instructions. Connect both pins 30 and 86 on the relay to the red 12 gauge 12V wire and the banded end of the diode. Refer to the schematic if those instructions are a bit confusing. Now heat shrink everything up and mount the relay and socket to the chassis of the car.

Battery Feed To Megasquirt

The final bit of engine bay wiring is to wire the main battery and ground feed to the ECU panel. This feeds the Megasquirt and accessories with a clean source of 12V that is separate from the existing 20 year old wiring in the car. Bringing another 12V feed into the car also has the advantage of providing a convenient place to attach add-on circuits and making troubleshooting easier.

Making these final connections is quite easy. Take the 8 gauge black wire you've already run to the battery area and crimp on a ring terminal. Make sure to use dielectric grease and preferably use a heat-shrinkable type ring terminal. If your terminal is the non-sealed type, use heat shrink to seal up the connection. Now connect this ring terminal to the bolt on the negative battery lug.

Connections to the battery via the circuit breaker

To connect the positive, you must first mount your 40A breaker to the chassis. There is plenty of space on the inner wheel well near the battery but the final location is up to you. Just make sure that it is physically close to the battery. Using ring terminals, make up a section of 8 gauge red wire to connect between the positive lug on the battery and the "battery" terminal of the breaker. Then use another ring terminal to connect the 8 gauge red wire you ran in the Megasquirt harness to the "aux" or "output" terminal of the breaker. The picture above shows both of these connections and how the wires are neatly tied to follow the stock battery cables. Note you can also see the leading coil connection beside the breaker in the lower right. For now, leave the positive disconnected at the battery.

Sit Back and Have A Beer

The engine bay wiring is now totally complete, so it is the traditional time to sit back with your favourite beverage and contemplate where you might have screwed it up. While you are enjoying your beverage, you may want to take the time to go over each connection and make sure things agree with the schematic. You won't be seeing the engine bay again for a while because now it is time to wire the stuff inside the car.

<< Install CLT and IAT Sensors

How To Megasquirt Your 2nd Gen RX-7
Prerequisites And Requirements
Parts List
Building and/or Modding The Megasquirt MS1/MS2
Modding And Setting Up Megasquirt MS3X
Remove Stock Wiring and ECU
Modify Stock Wiring
Mount The Megasquirt ECU
Install CLT and IAT Sensors
Wire The Megasquirt MS1/MS2 Harness Into The Car
Wire The Megasquirt MS3/MS3-Pro Harness Into The Car
Wire The ECU Panel, Wideband and Fuel Pump
Reassemble The Engine Bay
Programming The ECU (MS1)
Programming The ECU (MS2)
Programming The ECU (MS3X / MS3-Pro)
Starting The Car For The First Time
Basic Tuning
Installation Video and Resources
Wire The Megasquirt MS3/MS3-Pro Harness Into The Car >>

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